We’re not obsessed, but we are talking about bars again.
At the same time the Conservative Party grabbed headlines after managing to spell Britain wrong on a chocolate bar handed to conference attendees, another type of bar has gained attention for more of the right reasons.
In fact, almost everyone seems to be talking about Joe Wicks and his protein bar.
The nation’s favourite PE teacher and fitness guru launched a new protein bar – called Killer, which was initially announced through a press release.
It contains 19 grams of protein.
But it also includes a stomach-churning 96 ingredients, including those which can cause “strokes, cancer, diarrhoea and even death”.
On the protein bar’s website, it says: “Not only is the KILLER bar packed with additives linked to cancer, stroke and even early death, it's also high in saturated fat, sugar, and calories. If you eat too many, it may even give you diarrhoea.
“But with its 19g of protein, 27 vitamins and minerals and over 200 health and nutritional benefits, it also claims to be healthy, exposing the absurdity of our food labelling standards.”
Interesting marketing.
But here’s the catch. Killer has been deliberately created to be controversial as part of his new Channel 4 documentary Joe Wicks: Licensed To Kill.
Alongside Chris van Tulleken, he looks to raise awareness about the potential health risks associated with ultra-processed foods.
And it has been highly effective, creating numerous articles promoting the programme.
But why has it gained so much coverage?
Being fronted by a popular and credible figure clearly helps.
But, while the £2.29 bar includes a lot of unappealing ingredients, it also contains the components that make something newsworthy.
During our media training courses, we use our TRUTH methodology to describe what makes something newsworthy.
It stands for Timely, Relevant, Unusual, Trouble, and Human.
The Killer launch is both relevant and timely. Protein is big business, and it is booming. My teenage son is increasingly focused on consuming protein rich food. But at the same time, there is growing concern about the health impact of eating ultra processed food. And according to The Body Coach, more than 50 per cent of the average adult’s diet is made up of ultra-processed food.
As we tell our media skills training delegates, the unusual element is often crucial. Journalists want something that will surprise their audience. Something that is the first, the biggest, or the smallest fits that criteria. So, you can see why there was so much interest in a protein bar that claims to be ‘the most dangerous ever made’. It’s a powerful, unexpected news hook.
Journalists also love trouble. And this story is clearly packed with conflict, provocation and tension. But it also offers a solution to the problem, calling for tighter rules around ultra-processed food and better labelling.
And Mr Wicks, and the fact so many of are eating ultra processed food, brings the human element.
Rightly or wrongly (and we will come on to this bit), the launch of the killer bar makes the complex debate around ultra-processed food feel more accessible.
But the line between raising awareness and sparking conversation, and triggering a backlash can be narrow and perilous.
Amid the praise, there have been accusations of ‘scaremongering’, ‘demonising protein bars’ and oversimplifying nutrition.
Writing in The Standard, Dr Tim Spector said the programme took “a blunderbuss approach to addressing UPFs.”
And an article on the Nutra Ingredients Europe website, dietician Dr Carrie Ruxton said: “My worry is that people will be encouraged to fear processed foods or feel guilty for eating them when many types of processed foods are nutritious or harmless and can be enjoyed within the recommended diet.”
The risk is that it may have annoyed and frustrated some of those it needs on board to create change. And perhaps - because the bar is real and can be brought - that it could damage the Joe Wicks brand.
That debate is likely to rage on, and it is something media spokespeople from the food and drink industry and healthcare need to be prepared to face questions about in upcoming media interviews – it’s a predictable ‘while you are here’ question.
But the controversial protein bar undoubtedly created noise, triggered debate, and got people talking.
And the extensive coverage shows there remains a huge appetite for stories that have the right ingredients.
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Picture credit: Instagram/thebodycoach